Playing Catch-up

There has been lots of activity in our little studio. Did you catch that?  I said "we".  I am so excited that husband is joining me in my little venture.  We will be adding our art to the mix and I can't wait to get something up for you to see. We're keeping to the theme of re-purpose history and every piece of art will have a historical twist.  I'm so happy to be drawing again.

More supplies for the fabric art side of things have been arriving.  Like these two amazing wedding obi fabric bolts.   I was in such awe when I first saw these in person.  They are both ivory silk with gold, silver and ivory embroidery.  The motifs in the embroidery of cranes and phoenix are commonly found in Japanese wedding textiles.   I have some wonderful plans for these two but I will save the surprise for later.

Wedding obi bolts

Green embroidered obi silk

Most important, I've completed some new purse designs.  I really like this little bucket purse.  I added a flower from the distressed obi to the front.

We're really starting to have fun with the styling for the photography.  We are finding ourselves looking at catalogs for our favorite stores in a different way.  There is some amazing merchandise styling going on.

Now we just need to figure out how to balance the flood of ideas with the limited number of hours in the day.  Making sure to leave some quality time for each other.  I see the necessity for date night coming back into our lives.

What's new and re-commiting to my blog.

I'm not living up to my own blogging expectations.  It's much more difficult then I ever anticipated to blog and design and keep up my with comic deadlines.  Today I am re-commiting to myself to blog at least once a week for the next month.  It feels like a good goal.  I actually started this post just about a month ago so I am going to finish it up and write another.

Supplies are arriving.  A Uchikake (formal wedding kimono) and Fukuro obi got here quickly.  I purchased both intending to re-purpose them. When I opened the package I quickly noted that the kimono and obi were much more damaged then described. I could also see that the obi was not whole.  The fabric in my beautifully wrapped package was only part of a fukuro obi.  Descriptions are subjective and I don't think these errors were intentional, I just think the seller didn't know what she had.

To explain a little, a fukuro obi is a formal to semi formal obi and often has the decorative fabric only in the places that it would show when worn and the rest is plain.  The entire back was missing and the fabric that I held in my hand was horribly ragged.  There is a dark frayed badly stained crease down the the length of the fabric from use with more frays and little tears all over.  From the ad photo it appeared to be golden color and silver but in person a very dirty gold and silver with sort of a brown or tan color base.

I think the photo was lightened so it doesn't reveal the damage. Photo copyright owned by seller

Immediately, I though I've nothing to loose.  Into the bathtub with warm water and Meyers laundry soap it went.  Yes, I put silk in water again.  I thought it might fall apart but it was completely unusable in the condition it arrived. I began soaking the fabric around 3 in the afternoon.  Every few hours I would change the soapy muddy water.  I was on an all night coloring deadline so I was very patient with the soaking.  Each new soak revealed a new fabric.

I now realize the fabric is actually woven with gold and silver metal wrapped thread and an equal amount of light tan silk.  It's very interesting in texture because it is metal and now behaves like metal.  I think the original fabric was over-dyed brown by someone along the way to try and cover the stains and damage.  It is far too fragile to use for a garment, instead I am going to make some kanzashi tsumami inspired flowers for accessories.

close up of the poor condition

damaged wedding obi extreme closeup

A couple petals of my first Kanzashi inspired flower

Finished hair comb with a vintage button

I'm really pleased with the find and exactly what re-purposing history is all about.

I've had such a night!

I promised to blog more and look two days in a row.  Today was one of those days, you know the kind where everything just goes wrong.

So I am working on handbag designs for the store and I'm really excited because I am trying out a new design tonight.  Everything is cut out and I'm ready to work.  I get a few seams done on the straps then pressing, a few more seams and back to pressing.  Well that was the plan except my second attempt at pressing met with my iron sputtering.  Ok irons sputter a bit at times but this time I got sputtering then no more heat :( aw (insert expletive here).

Back to the sewing machine I go thinking I can get a few more seams done before I call it a night.  Fabric's under the presser foot and what do I get.  Knots and more knots.  Cursing under my breath I think to myself maybe some thread is tangled in the bobbin.  Out comes the bobbin nothing, then the bobbin casing.  To find, wait for it, nothing.  So I clean it out anyway just for good measure put everything back together re-thread and double-check all the adjustments.  Alright now I am going to try again.  You can all see where this is heading right?  Not me I'm thinking at this point it will work fine like it just did on the test fabric.  So on to the silk, no luck the stitching is all over the place and skipping. (insert louder expletives now, really loud!)  I am not happy, on the verge of tears.  All three of my sewing machines are now broken and the one that went down tonight is the worst because it's two years old and has only been used about a dozen times.  This means no warranty.  Sigh, just sigh.

Fortunately the entire week hasn't been that way.  I was able to complete a handbag with no problems and I love it.  It is made from an obi that had some pretty bad snags and smudges.  No problem to work around though.  It's a wonderful rich orange with gold, silver and green embroidery.  I would never have thought to put those colors together but here they are and they work just beautifully.  The Japanese color esthetic has me reconsidering the way I work with color. Hmm, how can I apply this to comics?  I'm sure I will think of a way.  I will get a photo of a finished bag to share very soon.

Super busy with designs and...

I'm already been lagging behind on my promise to blog regularly.  But, I've been really busy with so many business projects.  No excuse really just the truth.  I am back at 3am to bring you a little update.

I tried a very scary thing.  Hand washing the kimono fabric.  I filled the tub with icy cold water and added some Dreft baby laundry soap, took a deep breath and dunked.  Yay, it didn't bleed or fade at all.  It was so dirty though.  Had to repeat the hand washing 3 times before the water ran clean.  I should have photographed the filthy water, maybe next time.  Super happy with the beautiful bright clean fabric.  It will now be easier for me to match the color of the silk I will need for the skirt and bustled train.

The pattern for the corset top for the gown has been drafted and next I will make a toile before moving on to cutting the silk.  Cutting that silk will be stressful.  I am limited while working with kimono fabric to very narrow, just about 14 inches across and about 450-470 inches of length.  No mistakes allowed, I can't just run to the local fabric store for more fabric.  I will definitely be measuring twice no I think three times just to be safe.

I've also been researching I.R.S. requirements and LLC costs.  Ouch that last part is going to cost quite a bit.  More on that later.  I guess I have been pretty busy.  I will try to post something on the jewelry designs soon.

Everyone meet "Joan" not Mad Man's Joan but….

On Saturday my doorbell rang and I heard a big thump outside.  It was the Fedex delivery guy or girl.  I will never know because they were speeding away before I opened the door.  There on the porch was the box containing my new dress form.  I've been wanting one for so long but couldn't justify spending the money until now.

Into the house I go with the giant box that was much lighter then I expected.  I ripped off the tape because I have no patience and stopped... right there.  Before my eyes was a dress form with the most interesting shaped, um well no way to say but say it, breasts!  My brand new "uniquely you"  looked a bit like a caricature of a 1950's pinup.  I asked my husband for name suggestions, he took one look and she became "Joan".  Yes she is named after Joan on Mad Men.  I adore the character so I agreed.

uniquely you sans cover

At this point as much as I wanted to fit the cover right then it had to wait until we finished with our deadline for the DC comic JSA All Stars.  Tonight it was time to fit the cover.  The size was surprisingly close to my measurements.  I only had to take in the waist a few inches and I was good to put the cover on.  A warning to anyone looking at the uniquely you forms, putting the adjusted cover on is hard.  It took both me and my husband to wrestle her into it.  I think this form will get lots of use.  One of the best things about it is in fact that it squishes (technical term?) for corseting.

"Joan" with the cover fitted

Planning and designing

I've been sick for the last three days with food poisoning, yuck.  It's been pretty awful and kinda wonderful at the same time.  What!!  Ok I have to explain that part because I'm really not that crazy.  Food poisoning meant fevers and sleeplessness and some things that are just too much information.    Doing a lot of television channel hopping and couldn't really find anything to hold my interest so I ended up watching one of those horrible wedding dress shows in re-runs.  This got me remembering how much I use to enjoy working with brides, designing and sewing their wedding gowns.  A plan came to mind and I started sketching a couple of gown designs.  This one of a kind wedding dress is being made specifically for my etsy store.  I hope to have it complete for the grand opening.

This morning I'm sipping a yummy latte (made by my awesome husband) and surfing the internet for a little while before starting my workday.  I head over to the bay to hunt for the perfect kimono fabric for the wedding gown.  Lucky me, I found it in just a few short minutes.  As soon as I clicked on the photo I knew I had found the one.  This fabric spoke to me.  It's karieba/karinu furisode fabric.

Karieba/karinui is the cut pattern of the kimono roughly basted together.  It still needs unpicked, lined and finished to be worn as finished kimono.  Furisode is the most formal kimono of young unmarried woman it is most often seen at the Coming-of-Age Day ceremony when a girl turns 20.  It is easily recognized by the very long flowing sleeves, beautiful patterns and often has embroidery and hand painted designs.

While the fabric I chose is old and possibly vintage, it has never been worn and is in excellent condition.  I am trying to re-purpose damaged or un-wearable Japanese textiles into new jewelry and garments.  It would seem like unworn fabric wouldn't fall into this category but it does and this is why.  Chances are because this fabric has ended up on the bay that it will never be finished into the intended furisode.  The industry of kimono makers in Japan is sadly dwindling and I am unaware of many people in the United States who have the skills for the hand work required for kimono.  I am ecstatic to have purchased this gorgeous furisode bolt.  It will be a long fidgety couple weeks while I wait for delivery of the fabrics.

In the meantime I will begin drafting the pattern for the gown and working on the toile.  I like to have a few projects going at once.  It gives me time to step away and evaluate my process and design.

Here's a little peek at the images from the online store

I will try to obtain more information about the motifs in the fabric to share in a future post.

new year and new fabrics

Going thru my existing  japanese textiles and deciding what I will  re-purpose into new jewelry or garments.  I have one very geometric obi that is stained and has some small holes it's a beautiful orange color with metallic gold and green embroidery.  One wedding kimono, pale pink with elaborately embroidered cranes and flowers.  She, I don't know why but this one is a she, she is very damaged and dirty.  I think someone probably took her to a dry cleaner and made the damage worse.  I am going to have to get very creative to save her.  Last but not least the wool kimono from the last post.

In the past two days I have done a bit of online shopping for additional materials and inspiration.  I've added a few new things.  It's a bit disconcerting to buy online since you can never be sure of the color displayed on a computer screen.  I suspect by the pinkish tint in the background on these that there will be a little less pink in the garments when they arrive.

I really love this Showa period fukuro obi.  This piece is just asking to become a underbust corset.  I think I will leave out the front opening busk for this one to keep the embroidery intact.  The traditional japanese use of pattern and color are outstanding on this obi.  It makes me happy just looking at it.

Admittedly I have a small obsession with wedding garments so I went looking for obi to re-purpose into bridal corsets and clutches.  Purchased these two lovely fukuro obi fabric bolts that have never been made up.

and

There are a few more items I am going to try to obtain for materials later today.  Wish me success on the bay.

More progress on the toile.  Added boning channels ,boning and made small adjustments to the hip areas in the front and back.  I am really happy with the shape and fit.  The toile is creating a nice waist reduction and flattering curvy shape.  Can't wait to start the corset but, I have a coloring deadline for DC Comics in just a few days.  Sewing will wait until JSA All Stars issue 15 is off to the printer.

Our Ragdoll cat Alexander loves my space.  Hard part is keeping the paws off the material!  He is enjoying playing with the boning.

Today I started.

Today was big, I started to actually move forward and begin the process of developing  actual items for my etsy store.  I have a theme and it revolves around re-purposing beautiful Japanese textiles that are no longer usable in their original forms.  The hard part here is narrowing the flood of ideas I have down to a reasonable number.  All this of course has to be done in addition to my Day job as a freelance graphic artist. I color comic books for DC Comics and that it's normally takes up all my time and then some.  I will post links to that work sometime soon.

This afternoon my dear husband says to me "stop planning and get started sewing" I thought to myself ok he's right and I will never make this work if I don't pick up a pencil and get to drafting.  Funny part is DH sharpened a bunch of pencils for me, gotta love a supportive spouse.  He really thinks I can do this!

I gather my supplies and measurements and start drafting my first pattern.  It's going to be an underbust corset made from up-cycled, re-cycled, well loved kimono.  My first rule to choose a kimono it that is no longer wearable as intended.  It must have stains or holes or some patina.  I will have to use new boning and coutil for the inside but keeping our carbon footprint low by re using the kimono.  

Before I get to cut into the beautiful fabric I need a pattern so on to drafting.  My first try and the waist comes about 8 inches too small.  Yikes, I calculated really wrong somewhere so I start over and the second try is just right.

On to cutting my toile

Next I move on to sewing the toile together and the moment of truth, will it fit?

Yes!!  It's so awesome, I am only going to need very slight alterations to the lower hip.  The underbust area and waist look like they are going to be prefect.  DH has cut all the spring steel bones and tipped them for me.  I completely forgot to order the solid steel bones for the middle back so I can't do much until those arrive.  I have the center front opening busk already.  I will use quilting bars to help me form the casings for the bones.  Before I do that I will make the hip adjustment.

The goal with this pattern is to be sized to fit a range of people.  I am thinking of waist sizes from 22-34.  I have chosen an underbust style because I can have a nice range of sizes pre-made.  I love the idea of a custom corset but the sad truth is that the average person will find the corset online and want it now.  We are an impatient society and we don't like to wait.  I am guilty of this myself.  So my answer is to offer handmade corsets that have the best chance of fitting well on a range of people.  Hope this will work.

I will only be able to make a couple corsets or less for each unique kimono.  This means each corset will be one of a kind.  I am designing these to be worn as an outer garment and not just as lingerie.  This first one I am working on is going to look amazing with a button down blouse with french cuffs or a tee shirt and jeans.  I think I will photograph it both ways.

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